Château Palmer 2020

If a reclassification were ever in the cards, Château Palmer would be up for a promotion without a doubt.  This Third Growth Margaux estate transcends its ranking from 1855 and is now considered by many wine critics to belong in the higher ranks.  These sensationally fragrant,  richly complex wines are some of the finest examples of Bordeaux.  Their second label, Alter Ego, has a cult-like following and if a new classification were ever to take place, would be easily considered a Fourth Growth wine or higher.  Alter Ego is a worthy purchase for any wine buyer - and it never stays on the shelves too long.  With knockout vintages each year, Château Palmer is a star producer with a massively loyal fanbase.

The history of Château Palmer dates far before it received its namesake.  The vineyards were initially holdings of Château d’Issan before they were purchased by the fiery Madame de Gascq.  Madame de Gascq saw the estate’s potential well before anybody else did and told Englishman Charles Palmer the wines of the estate were easily as good as some of the First Growth properties in the Médoc.  Charles agreed with her, purchased the estate, and per the tradition of the time named it after himself.  Charles Palmer tripled the property’s holdings to 80-hectares, and in 1843 sold it to the Periere family.  The Periere family invested a lot of money into improving and modernizing the Château, only to sell it to a group of four powerful négociant families.  Of these four families, the Mähler-Besse family and the Sichel family are still some of the major shareholders running the estate today.

In 1998, Château Palmer debuted their legendary second label, Alter Ego.  Buyers take note – Alter Ego is not a Second Wine.  It’s an entirely separate label with different plots used for production.  Château Palmer is unique for a Left Bank estate because their vineyards – and wines including Alter Ego -- have a heavy preponderance of Merlot.  These vines are planted within the mixture of gravelly/clay soils.  Many other properties in Margaux plant their Merlot vines simply in clay, but what makes Château Palmer unique is their decision to plant these vines in their more graveled areas.

Today Château Palmer is overseen by the young and energetic Thomas Duroux. Duroux brings with him an impressive background; he formerly was in charge of the Super Tuscan legend Ornellaia prior to his working at Château Palmer.  Before that, he apprenticed at Château Léoville Las Cases and has worked at renowned wineries such as Mondavi and Tokay.  Thomas Duroux was responsible for transitioning the vineyards to 100% biodynamic viticulture. Sheep graze in the 60-hectare vineyards and a herd of cows provide manure for fertilizer.  Special nettle and horsetail teas are sprayed on the vines to assist in fertilizing and protecting them.  Château Palmer has also invested in soundwave machines that emit tones and vibrations to help develop protein cells in the vines.  Château Palmer has been Certified Biodynamic since 2017, with their 2014 label being their first 100% biodynamic vintage.

The viticultural team at Château Palmer has a culture of respect regarding the land, their wines, and their team.  That holistic mentality and consistent pursuit of excellence manifests itself in their profound wines – year after year. 

"Vivid colours, and the aromatics grab hold straight away. This is intense and concentrated, elegant, balanced and classical, all about the texture which is velvety and seductive with softly-grained tannins. Moves oh so slowly through the palate with dozens of layers to get hold of. The overall feel is precise, slow and seductive, with appellation and estate signature at every turn. Sappy, hawthorn freshness, rosemary, redcurrant, tobacco, cigar box and dark chocolate shavings on the finish. 3.77pH, 78IPT, 55% of overall production, with 13% press wine." Jane Anson, Best Margaux 2020 Wines Tasted En Primeur, (04/30/2021) Rating: 97

"The 2020 Palmer, which was matured in 65% new oak, possesses one of the most perfumed bouquets of the vintage with entrancing, seductive scents of black cherries, wild strawberry, iodine and crushed violets, all beautifully delineated (as per usual). The palate is medium-bodied with fine but quite firm tannins, lending this Palmer more backbone than presupposed. Blackberry, graphite and touches of liquorice develop with aeration that build towards an assertive, pencil box-tinged finish that nods towards Pauillac. This is a Palmer destined for long-term ageing, so readers should have a cool damp cellar handy. It is a serious Palmer, very different from the previous two vintages, not a mix of the two, but content in just being itself. 14.1% alcohol." Neal Martin, Vinous, (May 2021) Rating: 96-98