Château d'Issan 2017

The historic grounds of Château d’Issan are unquestionably some of the most resplendent and breathtaking in the Médoc.  With its gothic towers and moats, visiting Château d’Issan is a bit like traveling back in time.  Château d’Issan is one of the oldest châteaux in Bordeaux, and its history is as rich and powerful as its wines.  Though the wines were forgettable in the 1980s, they have skyrocketed in terms of quality in recent years.  Robert Parker Jr, the famed wine critic has stated when Château d’Issan produces good vintages, their wines are undoubtedly some of the greatest in all of Bordeaux.  It is no surprise that the motto of this estate engraved above the château door is, "Regum Mensis Aris Que Deorum“ which means - "for the tables of kings and altars of the gods.” 

Records of Château d’Issan date as far back to 1152, when the wine was served at the wedding of Elenore of Aquitaine to King Henry II.  At the time, the estate was known as Château Lamothe Cantenac.  Starting in the year 1575, Château d’Issan was acquired by the Essenault family who named it Château d’Issan – a contraction of their surname.  Stories of Château d’Issan and its legendary wines were told around the world and eventually Thomas Jefferson toured the estate and sang its praises during his trip to Bordeaux.   The Château was ranked as a Third Growth during Napoleon’s 1855 Classification, and a little over ten years later it was acquired by Gustave Roy. Gustave Roy had the first gravity fed cellars built and began the tremendous undertaking of replanting the vineyards that had been ravaged by phylloxera. Eventually the estate was taken over by the Cruse family, who still supervise the Château d’Issan today.

When Emmanuel Issan took over the estate in the 1990s, the quality of these wines began to gradually improve.  The estate introduced a Second Wine called Blason d’Issan in 1995, to improve the quality of the grand vin.  The alluvial  and gravel soils in the vineyards are planted with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot.  Weather is fairly mild here, due to the moderating influence of the Gironde Estuary, and this serves to the vines’ advantage.  The 1999 and 2000 vintages were astounding.  The vineyard is 59 hectares total – with 44 hectares in the Margaux appellation, 5 hectares in Haut Médoc and 10 hectares that are considered Bordeaux Supérieur.  The grapes are harvested by hand every autumn by acquaintances, neighbors, family and friends.  Château d’Issan also has a partnership with a school in Denmark, where several students come to work the harvest.  The grapes are then sorted onto a vibrating table and then off they go into their gravity fed wine making facilities.  

There is a specific freshness that is associated with the wines of Château d’Issan and the gorgeous, femininely floral traits synonymous with a Margaux. Their wines are elegant, and a bit more restrained with medium body and not too heavy tannins.  Many critics often laud the wines of Château d’Issan for delivering great quality for value.

"The deep garnet-purple colored 2017 D'Issan (a tentative blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot) opens with crushed blueberries and black plums notes with hints of cassis, licorice and violets. Medium-bodied with a firm and finely grained frame, it has oodles of freshness lifting the ripe black and blue fruits to a long, perfumed finish." - Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (4/27/2018, Issue 236), Ratings: 90-92

"The 2017 Chateau D'Issan offers more of everything, with a deep ruby/plum color and rocking notes of black raspberries, cassis, spring flowers, violets, loamy earth, and dried tobacco. Beautifully textured, elegant, and finesse-oriented, it has excellent tannins, medium to full body, and an outstanding finish. Based on a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot representing just 47% of the total production, aged in 50% new oak, give bottles 3-5 years and enjoy over the following two decades. This estate covers just over 42 hectares of vines planted in deep, gravelly, clay-based soils. The quality here has been on an upward trend over the past decade thanks to the talents of Emmanuel Cruse and consultant Eric Boissenot." Jeb Dunnuck, 2017 Bordeaux From Bottle (2/26/2020) Rating: 93